Security the Tunisian way: sketch of a returning observer (photo). Tunisia is trying to regain the trust of Russians Tunisia is in the area of special attention
Why Djerba
Before answering the question "Why for perfect holiday Is the island of Djerba most suitable?", you should know why you should go to Tunisia. Everything is simple here. Previously, Russians had two favorite destinations for a beach holiday abroad - Turkey and Egypt. They went there because, firstly, it was quite cheap and, secondly, habitually - thanks to the established tourist flow these countries adapted to Russian tourists and their needs, so vacationers there could feel at home.
Now a trip to Egypt, as well as to Turkey, is accompanied by considerable problems and difficulties. We should not forget about concerns for the safety of tourists. Therefore, many experts advise finding some reasonable alternative to these destinations, and Tunisia fits perfectly here. In addition to the fact that the country can offer the utmost concern for the safety of tourists, local officials are making a fair effort to ensure that the trip of Russians to the North African coast does not hurt their pockets.
Airport. Photo: "Morning"
Getting to Tunisia is not difficult - for tourists from Russia the country has visa-free regime. Upon arrival, just fill out a short form. It is advisable to save it until the end of the trip, then you will not have to answer these questions again during exit border control. In principle, these are all formalities - Tunisia is open to tourists and is happy to welcome every vacationer.
Tunisia, like Egypt, Turkey, France and dozens of other countries, became a victim of international terrorism, but drew the necessary conclusions from this, and now this country can boast of one of the most developed security systems. And if all of Tunisia can be represented as impregnable fortress, then the island of Djerba is its most protected part. This factor, along with objective circumstances - a long season, comfortable air temperature and warm sea, friendly locals and comfortable hotels make this island an ideal holiday destination.
The island of Djerba is a dry place. Photo: "Morning"
Security situation
National Guard. Photo: "Morning"
The Spanish Reconquista left Tunisia a legacy of blue doors and window frames of the same color, French colonial policy - bilingualism and signs on French. The Arab Spring is also reflected in the everyday appearance of the streets - in the form of Tunisian military, police and national guards equipped with automatic weapons, who here and there catch the eye of a curious tourist.
However, for Tunisia itself, which became the “first sign,” everything went most successfully, and now local residents are rightfully proud of their youngest democracy and the Nobel Peace Prize. But neighboring Libya was less fortunate, and now this war-torn country is a factor destabilizing the situation throughout the region.
Roman road. Photo: "Morning"
The Tunisian authorities do not skimp on security. In particular, it became known that the country had erected a wall on the border with Libya. Special police units are on duty in cities and near tourist sites. Also in the city there are ordinary law enforcement officers and people working undercover, without showing either uniform or weapons. On field excursions, groups of tourists are guarded by the National Guard, who also controls the coastal part of the country. The hotels themselves have undergone serious re-certification - without a metal detector frame, surveillance cameras placed around the perimeter, enhanced security with a dog and additional staff training, a hotelier simply will not be able to obtain a license to operate.
Also, Tunisian intelligence services actively cooperate with their European colleagues and use the most Hi-tech and innovative approaches. According to statements by country officials, they are open to cooperation with Russian specialists.
Roadblock. Photo: "Morning"
What to do in Djerba
The first advantage of Djerba is a beach holiday. All hotels located on the island have their own comfortable beach. At the same time, vacationers can use not only umbrellas and sun loungers, but also ride a jet ski, fly on a parachute, test their agility on the famous “tablet” jumping on the waves, or, if they want to jump on the waves more calmly, sit on the no less famous “banana” .
Unlike sunbeds and umbrellas, these services are paid. However, vacationers themselves are happy to note: they are much cheaper than in competing countries.
Pottery. Photo: "Morning"
In addition, Djerba offers tourists golf courses, a crocodile farm, museums that demonstrate with historical accuracy the life of local residents, trips to pottery, where, in front of the amazed public, an elegant table service will be made from a shapeless piece of clay, and all this on tools, not changing over centuries.
Even the most demanding tourist can be interested in local life. For example, the market in the city of Houmt Souk, although half consisting of souvenir shops, still retains a truly Tunisian charm.
Port. Photo: "Morning"
One of the main attractions shopping arcades is a fish shop. The way trade is carried out here can be called one of the attractions of the island and could be included in the list of UNESCO cultural heritage. The seller raises his hand with a bunch of fish. Buyers who do not know the weight, the exact quantity, or even how many types of fish are in the bunch, begin to offer their price. Local residents really organize these auctions, and not at all to attract tourists - this is an ordinary part of their daily life.
For lovers of history and culture, Tunisia also has something to offer. “There are about 40 thousand archaeological sites, many of which are under the jurisdiction of the UN,” said the country’s Minister of Tourism and Traditional Crafts, Salma Ellumi Rekik. The island of Djerba also appeared in Homer's Iliad and was already positioned as a very attractive place.
Crocodile farm. Photo: "Morning"
However, the main thing that Tunisia is famous for is thalassotherapy. This is similar to the well-known SPA in Russia, but the procedures here use sea salt water and other seafood, such as algae. Moreover, Tunisian thalassotherapy boasts a rich history and ancient traditions. This craft originated here in ancient times, when veterans of the Roman legion were sent here for treatment. Now tourists from the most different corners planets. Statistics show that the French are especially fond of thalassotherapy, however low prices And incredible level mastery, local salons can please Russians too.
What you need to be prepared for
For many Russians, the language threshold is the determining factor when choosing a country for a holiday. Tunisia speaks Arabic and French. However, local residents also understand English. Anyone who does not speak any language other than Russian should not be afraid. Tunisians have actively begun to study it.
Hotel. Photo: "Morning"
Shawki Dahri, a bartender at the Palm Beach Palace Hotel, boasts a command of five languages - in addition to the required Arabic and French for Tunisians, he is able to carry on a conversation in English, German and Italian. “Don’t worry about the languages,” he assures, “in one or two seasons, all of Tunisia will speak Russian.” Moreover, he, apparently, really means full command of the language, since you can place an order, explain or ask for something in Russian now.
Shawki, not without pride, displays a booklet hidden under the bar counter - this is a short phrasebook that lists the most common phrases and concepts necessary for work. However, the learning does not end there - all hotel staff attend lessons with a Russian-speaking teacher. And this is the case all over the island. Local hoteliers seriously intend to charm tourists from the Russian Federation, like the sirens who once lived nearby - Odyssey.
We thank the Tunisian National Tourism Office in Moscow and the tour operatorAnex Tour for the opportunity to visit Tunisia.
Just recently I visited the beautiful island of Djerba and today I want to tell you about it.
Djerba is located in the south of Tunisia, geographically south of Cyprus, Crete, and Malta. This is the warmest resort on the Mediterranean Sea. The season begins at the end of March and lasts until the end of October.
The combination of sea air with semi-desert winds and the freshness of olive groves created a unique climatic zone, neither adults nor children experience acclimatization, breathing is easy, and there is no rain or cloudiness during the high season.
The main wealth of the island is the endless snow-white beaches, with a smooth sunset, sunsets and sunrises on the island fascinate with their majestic beauty.
Hotels of any category are distinguished by impeccable service. There is no tipping system, if the staff has the ability to help you or make you smile, they will genuinely try to please you.
The food is of high quality; the buffet always offers a wide selection of delicious dishes prepared from the freshest ingredients. In any hotel you will be offered grilled meat and seafood, fresh fruits and vegetables, dietary dishes, free ice cream during breakfast, lunch and dinner. Tunisian cuisine developed under the influence of French; it was from the French that local chefs learned how to prepare wonderful, delicate desserts.
The bars serve locally produced alcoholic drinks. The most popular are wines: red, white, rose, local beer, traditional drink booze (38%). The drinks are of high quality and are served only from bottles. They also make alcoholic and non-alcoholic cocktails. Guests are offered real, freshly brewed aromatic coffee that will delight even gourmets.
But you won’t be bored outside the hotels either, because there is a wide choice of excursions. You can visit a crocodile farm, take part in feeding giant reptiles, take a photo with a crocodile on your shoulder, or devote a day to a sea walk, sunbathe on desert island surrounded by pink flamingos. Extreme lovers will appreciate a tour of the island on ATVs. The island of Djerba is located close to the Sahara, tourists have a unique opportunity to visit the desert without wasting time on a long transfer.
The safety of tourists is guaranteed, the island is small - 25 km, there are no local residents in the tourist areas, the population is conservative, the island is guarded from the sea, when approaching from an airplane, towers and patrol boats are visible, buses with tourists are accompanied by security.
The flight to Djerba is short, only 4 hours. Direct flights from Moscow 3 times a week (during the season). Nordwind airline flies.
A Metro journalist found out on the spot how safe it is on Djerba, and how Russians accustomed to the all-inclusive system have a rest.
What kind of island
“The island of Djerba is true love. Because we don’t know why exactly we love it...” This is what the locals say. The dimensions of Djerba are small - only 29 by 28 km (this is almost twice less area Petersburg). And the main advantages are great sandy beaches, clear sea and hotels with thalassotherapy centers, conducive to relaxation and tranquility.
These places have long been beach holiday favored by the French and Germans, who arrive en masse in Djerba during the season from May to October. Now they have real competition from the Russians, who are very loved and awaited here. Russian tourists- unlike Europeans, they go outside the hotels and go on excursions, willingly spend money on souvenirs and local goods, and go to restaurants and cafes.
Russian speech on the island is no longer uncommon, and in hotels, service personnel who speak French and English are already studying the language of Pushkin and Dostoevsky with all their might.
Nature, climate and local color
The road from the airport to any of the hotels in Djerba will not take more than half an hour - everything is nearby, and after the flight you won’t have to endure a difficult bus ride (especially for those traveling with children).
On the way to the hotel, many will think that the island is uninhabited. Everywhere you look - endless sandy beaches, emerald blue sea, evergreen palm trees and no one around.
The fact is that on Djerba, ever since the pirate raids, local residents preferred to settle in the depths of the island. By the way, there is still a rule in Djerba - not to build buildings “higher than palm trees.” The most noticeable buildings are often snow-white mosques. They are also unusual - not with a dome, but with a tower, and look like fortresses.
The area along the coast in Djerba is now firmly assigned to the hotels and their inhabitants. That is why a vacation on the island can be called isolated - in complete harmony with nature. By the way, on the island it is quite sparse, but very colorful - there are evergreen olive trees, spreading date palms, exotic cacti everywhere...
But the main advantage of Djerba is its wide beaches with fine white sand, a clean, warm sea with a gentle entrance, in which it is safe to swim even for children.
The climate on the island is hotter than in the north of Tunisia - 5 degrees.
Hotels in Djerba and Zarzis
In Djerba and Zarzis (the most southern resort Tunisia on the mainland) has a total of about 160 hotels - mostly 4 and 5 stars, where you can relax on an all-inclusive basis. The hotel grounds are usually green and spacious, there are at least 3-4 swimming pools and the obligatory bars with drinks nearby, and the sea with gorgeous beaches and free sun loungers is a stone's throw away.
During the day, tourists are offered to warm up in the pool (aqua aerobics), play beach volleyball or darts, and in the evening the animation team, which is found in almost all hotels, organizes a wide variety of shows - from classical music concerts to discos.
You won’t miss the beach fun either - you will definitely get a tempting offer to ride a camel or horse and, of course, a banana boat, a jet ski, or fly with a parachute behind a boat. There are also options for advanced extreme sports enthusiasts - divers and surfers.
Safety in Djerba
The key point when choosing a country for a trip to the sea is the confidence that the safety of the tourist is guaranteed there. In Tunisia, perhaps, they are concerned about this problem more than anywhere else in the country. The government allocates a huge budget to ensure the safety of tourists at resorts. Hotels are not allowed to operate without strict and clear rules and are subject to sanctions for the slightest violations. Thus, video surveillance systems are installed on hotel premises, and 24-hour security is required, including on the beaches. It is almost impossible for outsiders to enter the hotel premises. On boat trips, tourists are accompanied by police on boats, and cordons are posted on the roads. Regular checks take place everywhere - from museums to airports.
From the point of view of the terrorist threat, the island of Djerba is the most secure in Tunisia. Just because it's an island. There is only one road connecting Djerba to the mainland, which is controlled by the police at entry and exit.
The Tunisian Minister of Tourism and Crafts, Selma Elloumi, personally stated in June this year that security guarantees in Djerba reach 100%.
“Safety is everything to us. We guarantee our guests that everything is being done in Tunisia to make you feel safe on vacation,” Tunisian Minister of Tourism and Crafts Selma Elloumi told Russian journalists in Djerba.
Sights of Djerba and useful information
The population of the island is 160 thousand people. Almost half live in big city Djerba - Houmt Souke. Here you can stroll along the narrow colorful streets, look at Bordj el-Kebir fort – old fortress with a dark history, go to the local market.
Another mandatory place to visit in Djerba - Museum folk traditions and crafts, near the village of Gellala, almost in the center of the island. The museum is located on a small hill, and the view from there is stunning - like from an observation deck, because the island itself is flat, like a flat cake.
You won’t be bored in the halls of the museum - they present “compositions” from the life of the Djerbians - how they bake bread, hold weddings, make national clothes and even drink tea.
Pottery Museum- another place where tourists love to visit. It is located in the village of Gellala. Here they make ceramic products in the “old-fashioned” way – on a potter’s wheel. Travelers will be shown all the stages of creating incredibly beautiful dishes and will be offered to purchase souvenirs.
There are no ruins of ancient civilizations on the island of Djerba; you need to go to the mainland to find them, but there is a Roman road. It was laid out over the sea from huge boulders 1800 years ago and connects the island to the mainland. The length of the Roman road is 8 km. Only two cars can pass each other on it; buses will already be cramped.
From the island of Djerba it is very convenient to go on excursions to the largest hot desert on earth - the Sahara. It is only 150 km from here. From the northern part of Tunisia it takes much longer to get there.
This is what will bring a sea of emotions to Djerba - both children and adults - this crocodile farm and the island of pink flamingos. Although the latter is accessible all year round, birds are there only in October. You can go to the island on a “pirate” ship. A team of dashing “sea robbers” will entertain you along the way, entrust you with a net and ask you to help throw it into the sea, and on the island you can swim and taste lunch from local dishes.
Crocodile Farm at Explorer Park- This is a kind of zoo. About 800 individuals live here - from 4-meter toothed reptiles (the oldest crocodile is 20 years old) to tiny harmless crocodiles, which you will be offered to pet and, for the thrill of the sensation, may be placed on your shoulder or head.
Crocodiles here are not bred for “handbags” and steaks, they live like in a sanatorium - meals are served by the hour, cozy warm lake, overgrown with mud, plus an additional bonus - demonstration feeding for tourists... It is this entertainment that attracts many vacationers to the park.
Huge pieces of meat are thrown to the crocodiles and they immediately open their toothy mouths and swallow the “prey”. Blood flows down the crocodiles' faces, the reptiles even depict some kind of activity in the fight for meat, the audience is delighted. It is explained to the curious that crocodiles eat strictly according to a schedule, and demonstration feedings are just a show.
Transport
You can get around the island by taxi – it’s inexpensive. A trip from one end of the island to the other in 20 minutes will cost 10 dinars (about 300 rubles). You can rent a car. The average cost is 100 dinars per day. But you need to remember that there is nowhere to drive it, and gasoline in Djerba is not cheap - 1.6 dinars per liter.
Curious.
Motorists will notice that there are no traffic lights on the roads of Djerba. As it turned out, the nearest “regulator” is in the capital of the country - Tunisia, 800 km away. At the same time, there is no chaos on the roads of Djerba - there are roundabouts, there are few cars, however, as well as pedestrian crossings. People calmly cross the road in any convenient location, only by showing the drivers the appropriate hand sign.
People
There are many Jews living in Djerba. One of the island's attractions is the large synagogue. Berbers (local people) and Jews coexist very peacefully. When Muslims are in the month of Ramadan, during which they cannot eat until sunset, their Jewish neighbors even try not to prepare aromatic dishes so as not to tease the appetite of those fasting.
What to bring from Tunisia and what to try
It is wrong to think that there is nothing on Djerba except dates and olives. In the interior of the island, farming flourishes on private farms. Watermelons and strawberries, apricots, peaches, oranges and melons are grown in cultivated areas. All these fruits are available in abundance in local markets (strawberries 1.5 dinars per kg, small watermelon - 3 dinars, figs - 2.5 dinars per kg) and, of course, in hotel restaurants. Bananas, kiwis and pineapples are brought from the mainland.
A special treat is seafood. In Djerba you can try the freshest Mediterranean fish, octopus and king prawns, which cannot be found in the north of Tunisia.
Local beer and wine are acceptable in taste and do not cause any complaints even among gourmets. But Djerba’s strong drink, booze, is very specific. Bukha is a 40-proof date vodka with an unusual aroma and aftertaste. Tourists are usually willing to buy booze in expensive Duty Free airport on the way home.
Buying alcohol in Djerba is not an easy task. Alcohol is sold only in special stores.
What is available and cheap is locally produced olive oil and dates. For a liter of oil they will charge 8 dinars, for 500 grams. dates – 5. By the way, Tunisia ranks 3rd in olive oil exports in the world.
Shops with souvenirs, clothing, leather goods and others necessary for tourists You don’t have to look for goods in Djerba - they are located right opposite the hotels. Smiling salespeople will be happy to greet you and show you everything you want. Bags and wallets made of camel skin and very cute textile souvenirs are popular among shopping lovers in Tunisia.
Currency - what to take
In Tunisia, they love dollars more than euros, and rubles will not be accepted under any circumstances. There are ATMs on the streets and in stores, and cash can be withdrawn from a card without any problems. But paying with a card is already more difficult - only when purchasing from a certain amount - usually at least 15 dinars.
Why Tunisia?
The resorts of Tunisia and the island of Djerba in particular have become a good alternative to Turkey, beloved by Russians, but now unsafe. First of all, for the price.
A trip for two to a 4* hotel in Djerba or Zarzis (all inclusive) for a week can cost 70 thousand rubles (at prices as of July 2016). For this money, tourists will receive 4 meals a day, decent service, free drinks - from juice and coffee to beer, wine and local rum, and most importantly - sun, sea, clean beaches... And the bonus will be absolutely free sincere smiles of Djerbians.
Throughout the entire country, under a state of emergency, work in the tourism sector has been unusually intensified. Thus, according to Tourism Minister Salma Elloumi Rekik, in 2016 the government allocated a huge budget to ensure the safety of travelers and found authoritative allies to help the Tunisian leadership protect the peace of mind of vacationers. "Lenta.ru" went to Djerba - the southernmost seaside resort of this North African state - to personally inspect how well Tunisians take care of tourists a year after the bloody terrorist attack in Sousse.
"It's a matter of life and death"
For obvious reasons - Djerba is an island - it is easier for security forces to ensure security here, Rekik notes. The likelihood of armed intruders getting here is much lower than on the continent, even despite the territorial proximity of troubled Libya, located only 110 kilometers from Djerba. “The safety of tourists is a matter of life and death for Tunisia,” the minister said, emphasizing that the consequences of another terrorist attack like the attacks in the capital’s Bardo Museum and Sousse would be disastrous for the tourism sector of the entire country. Therefore, the authorities are endowed with almost exclusive powers: the government can close any hotel found to be failing to comply with government regulations.
Rekik’s words are confirmed by the actions of various law enforcement agencies that maintain order both on hotel beaches and on public ones. Coast Guard boats regularly cruise along the coast, and on land, horse-drawn patrols often pass sunbathing travelers. Hotel security services constantly interact with law enforcement agencies. It will be extremely difficult for a would-be terrorist to get ashore undetected.
The police involved in maintaining peace directly on the island do not lag behind their colleagues. There are many law enforcement officers everywhere: they can be seen near large shops and entertainment venues, they look after groups of tourists and help those lost in dusty alleys independent travelers. Vacationers themselves, both Europeans and Russians, admit that such an abundance of police officers is more reassuring and gives confidence than annoying.
When I first visited Djerba in the summer of 2000, I could not even imagine that I would ever be concerned about safety on this island. However, terrible events occurred that completely changed my attitude towards Tunisia and Djerba in particular. Now I cannot call this island, country, or the whole North Africa, as well as the Middle East.
Safety in Djerba worries many tourists, who often ask me about whether Djerba is dangerous. If a couple of years ago I could say with confidence that Djerba, as well as throughout Tunisia, is safe, now I will not say so.
But let's face the truth and answer the question: “Are there many places now where you are guaranteed to be safe?” Terrible events occur even in the heart of Europe, and in other places, for example, in Indonesia, there may also be such phenomena as a tsunami, earthquake, volcanic eruption, flood.
Is it dangerous in Djerba? Although no one can guarantee complete safety on Djerba, many people living in Tunisia consider this island the most unlikely place that militants could choose to attack tourists. This is mainly explained by the fact that it is more difficult for them to get on and off the island. In addition, almost all Djerba hotels are located in one area on the east coast of the island, and this area is controlled by the police.
Now let's look at security in Djerba without taking into account the possible attack by fanatics on tourists. Is it dangerous in Djerba in general? In resort areas you have virtually nothing to fear, although, as you know, there are bad people everywhere. Of course, you should also monitor your behavior, since danger may lie in wait for those who are looking for this danger.
In non-resort areas of Tunisia, tourists can also feel safe, but you must remember that in such areas life goes according to local laws and traditions. Therefore, you need to be well aware of the rules of conduct in an Arab country in order to avoid unpleasant moments. For example, you should not swim on public beaches in swimsuits, you should not show affection to your partner, you should dress appropriately. In general, remember that in such areas no one looks at you as a tourist - for everyone, you are an ordinary person who must follow certain laws and rules.
Now let's turn our attention to dangers such as animals. In Djerba, the risk of a shark attack is very small, almost zero. As for snakes, there is a chance of being bitten by a snake, but you still need to look for that snake. In hotels, snakes are very rare, but in rural areas the likelihood of meeting a snake increases, although you should also try to find at least one snake. Let’s say right away that snakes on Djerba are mostly dangerous.
Also, dogs that are found in cities and rural areas can pose a certain danger. Sometimes dogs come onto hotel beaches, but, as a rule, hotel security guards try to drive these dogs away. In general, dogs in Djerba are quite peaceful, but if you ride a bicycle, they can attack you.
